This page is currently under construction. You can edit the article to help completing it.
Write a short, relevant description of the device. Include a technical overview, but avoid marketing buzzwords/useless stuff. Two to four sentences is about right. A picture is good, too. Edit the page to see how to add pictures.
I'm still working on getting all the hardware details right, I plan on adding support for this device. Creating the wiki page now, to help me with keeping track which chips are sitting in the device — Djfe 2017/01/14 03:47
Right now I can only progress slowly since I still need to figure out everything out about the serial connectors of my device.
I made pictures (also from the PCB) which I will add later on to this page.
My hardware revision is A1G (Germany probably?) to be exact, I'm not able to find out whether the “G” even matters, since I only own this one device. D-Link's own Web GUI only displays A1 as the revision. If you own this device as well but are sitting in a different country, consider contributing your exact hardware revision with all the details to this wiki. A1G is the hardware revision number printed onto a sticker on the pcb of my device.
This introduction will be revised later on once I made further progress with the important stuff: porting openwrt itself — Djfe 2017/01/18 06:42.
PackIMG Section delimiter tag
might not start directly after 256KiB
(at the end)
The original firmware in upgrade contains a 64 bytes SEAMA-header followed by the kernel padded to 64KB, followed by a 32 bytes PackIMG section delimiter tag, followed by the rootfs, followed by some (yet) unknown data, followed by mydlink somewhere in 6607KiB of unused memory.
Anyways, since the rootfs is 96 bytes off from a 64 KB boundary, there have to be 928 bytes of padding at the end. According to other pages in this wiki the SEAMA-header is variable in size, so the padding might be of different size.
Opening the case
Remove at least 3 of the 4 rubber feet below the device and the corresponding Phillips screws behind them
(the foot at the front side doesn't hide a screw behind it).
Now you have to tackle the top. The blue-silverish ring at the top is only for the looks (and for hiding the two small Phillips screws we want to reach).
It's only glued to the top, so you can easily remove it using a small slotted screw driver. Just place the screwdriver at the inside of the ring and leverage it off (you can reach the innerside way better since there are the vents).
Once you also unscrewed the screws you just uncovered, it's time to take the front of the device off.
You can do so by holding the backpart and moving the front part of the case downwards (they are hooked with each other).
The pcb is completely attached to the backpart of the case, so you can't rip any wires by taking the front part off.
It's held in place by two further Phillips screws: one at the top, one at the bottom. If you unscrew these as well, then you will be able to take the pcb out off the plastic case. Voila, done! Now you got access to serial pins.
I might add a video later on, that illustrates this process, but I think it should be relatively straight forward :)
Reversing this process is self-explaining. You might need to readd some liquid adhesive to keep the feet or the ring in place, that's about it.
How to connect to the Serial Port of this specific device:
You can find the serial header on the upside of the pcb, it's labeled J1.
It only consists out of unpopulated holes, so you need to solder some pins to it first to be able to connect to it.
And you'll likely need an USB to TTL (3.3v) Adapter for your PC.
Serial connection parameters
for D-Link DIR-845L Rev. A1